What Makes a Watch Coveted, According to an Expert

Let’s face it—we’re not all watch experts. As beautiful as the world of timepieces is, it can be difficult to keep up with all the technical jargon. What exactly is a reference number? Should you know what a dial is? Does buying a watch mean learning a brand’s centuries-old history? The answer is yes. But it’s also perfectly fine to appreciate a watch simply because you like how it looks. After all, beauty doesn’t require expertise. 

Still, if you want to understand why some watches become icons while others fade into the background, it helps to know what collectors look for. That’s why we turned to watch expert Emerson Yao, managing director of the Lucerne Group—the Philippines’ leading luxury watch retailer representing brands from Patek Philippe to Vacheron Constantin—to explain what makes a watch truly coveted.

GQ Philippines: In your opinion, what makes a watch coveted?

Emerson Yao: There are many reasons why a watch becomes coveted by the market, but the one that stands out most to me is a compelling story. A great story creates desire, and when paired with exceptional design, it can transform a product into an icon.

What watches do you consider the most coveted in today’s watch world?

Among the most coveted watches today are virtually any model from the Rolex Professional range, with the Cosmograph Daytona firmly at the top of the list. Patek Philippe’s steel watches are also highly sought after, particularly the iconic Nautilus collection. Other enduringly desirable models include the Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch and IWC’s Pilot’s Watches, while the recently introduced Rolex Land-Dweller has already generated considerable interest among collectors.

What separates a watch that people simply admire from one that they obsess over and spend years trying to acquire?

A watch becomes worth obsessing over when several—or all—of these qualities converge in a single creation: a compelling story that speaks to you, beautiful or trend-setting design, the heritage and credibility of the brand, selective distribution that creates genuine scarcity, and meaningful innovation. When story, beauty, innovation, and scarcity come together, admiration becomes desire.

How much of a watch’s appeal comes from the story behind it?

The story behind a brand or a particular collection is extremely important. I would say it accounts for about 50% of a watch’s appeal. The other half comes from a combination of rarity, functionality, distinctive features, and design. A compelling story gives the watch meaning, while these other elements give collectors a reason to desire and pursue it.

Have watch collectors’ tastes changed over the past decade?

Yes, collectors’ tastes have evolved considerably over the past decade, largely in response to broader shifts in watch design. Case sizes have generally become more restrained, while watches have also grown slimmer and more refined. There has been a renewed appreciation for classic proportions, timeless styling, and vintage-inspired details. Collectors today seem increasingly drawn to watches that feel elegant, historically grounded, and easy to wear—not simply bold or oversized.

When you first encounter a watch, what qualities immediately suggest it has the potential to become highly coveted?

A watch may be highly admired, but admiration alone is not enough for it to become truly coveted. It must also be priced appropriately—not only for what it offers, but in relation to comparable watches from competing brands. Predicting how the market will respond to a new product is never easy, so we look closely at its story and history, its functions and innovation, its design, and, most importantly, whether the price represents compelling value.